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She’s a fashion icon, an inspiration, a pioneer and one of the most recognisable faces on the planet. And after 34 years in the modelling world, Naomi Campbell is determined to change a few things.

She spoke to Woman’s Hour about the racism she encountered during her career, how fashion can change for the better and what she’s doing to make the business fairer.

Being a pioneer in the fashion industry was difficult and Naomi encountered many upsetting situations early in her career. “I remember showing up to one job in Italy and basically the make-up artist said to me: “Oh we didn’t know you were black.” He didn’t have the foundation for me. He had to mix some colours and make up my colour. And that consisted of a lot of grey. And I remember when that cover came out I just cried. I wanted so much to be on the cover of this publication, it was Italian Vogue, but I didn’t want to be grey. I went through that for many, many years.”

It wasn’t just issues in the make-up chair that provided problems for Naomi. “In the beginning of my career, they tried to put me in a maid’s outfit or tried to make me a stereotype with dreadlocks. Not all, but there were some jobs that tried to dress me in this way. And I said, ‘No I will not be dressed like this, I’m not a gimmick.’”

“You get called difficult”

Attempting to take a stand and conduct her career with dignity inevitably saddled Naomi with the “difficult” tag. But she has no qualms about this. “Opening your mouth, you get called difficult. I never felt bothered by being given a label for opening my mouth. Why should I accept that when I could see my white counterparts look glamorous and beautiful and gorgeous in the magazines? Why did I have to be dressed in a stereotypical way? So I spoke up about it. I’ve never kept silent about it.”

“It’s based on trust”

The lack of diversity in the fashion industry, both in front and behind the camera, has been unmissable and unforgivable during Naomi’s career. “I can count on one hand how many make-up artists of colour I’ve worked with in 34 years.” Her friend Pat McGrath is one of the exceptions. “I’ve worked with the most incredible make-up artists in the world. Pat McGrath is one of those. What was great was I could sit in the chair and close my eyes and get my make-up done and know that I was going to come out looking myself. It’s based on trust and bonding. I had that with Pat.”

While it’s accepted that black culture contributes enormously to popular culture and the fashion world in particular, the industry has been slow to embrace diversity. “I feel that in general, in the fashion industry, we have not had the seat at the table that we deserved. We are capable and that’s the insult. We have the same qualifications. It’s not equality and that’s what has to happen in our business. It has to be equal and it has to be equal pay too. It took me decades to get equal pay. Not complaining, I’m just stating a fact.”

“We are not a trend”

Naomi has attempted to change racism in the fashion industry via her Diversity Coalition that she created in 2013 with fellow model Bethann Hardison. “Bethann and I started the Diversity Coalition together and we’ve done the rounds in our business, speaking to designers. Yes that did change things and it got better. I’ve always said for many, many years, we are not a trend. It’s wonderful that everyone is finally speaking out.”

“They didn’t squash me”

Naomi is hoping to influence and inspire the next generation of models. “I don’t want to have been in the business for this long and not have made it easier for the next generation. That would really break my heart. I don’t want them to have to struggle the way I struggled, even though I like the challenges I went through. I rose to them. They didn’t squash me. They didn’t silence me. I’ve always been supportive in talking and mentoring young models. If they ever need anything, I’ve always been very open to that. I want them to know they can come to me whenever they need to.”

“I try to use my nerves”

After over 30 years in the business, Naomi still makes the occasional catwalk appearance. And it still makes her nervous. “Normally I don’t tell people. That’s just the way I am. I like it to be kept quiet and then I just appear, do my thing and I’m out. No-one realises that when I walk, I’m nervous. I try to use my nerves to get over my fear and do what I need to do. The day that I don’t feel nervous is the day that I won’t be on the catwalk.”