Gregg Hayes from Pembroke
August 2005 I dislocated my knee and snapped my anterior cruciate ligament playing rugby in a pre-season 7's tournament. I was out of the water for 4 months, then had the operation to fix it in May 2006 and had to endure another 4 months out of the water. My physio was a surfer and she recommended I buy a knee brace so I got in touch with a company called Donjoy that make all kinds of braces and they suggested the Donjoy Armour Ski brace. It was designed for the US Olympic Ski team but works wonders in the water! Feels a bit odd at first and pretty much wrecks your wetsuit legs but means the 9 months out of the water they threaten you with turns out to be 4 months. A long time I know, but it's easier than 9 months! Anyway, all better now, no brace and suring as often as possible (I hate the fact that I have to work!!!)
Chris Bournemouth
Due my third op on my knee in september then 2 more next year only thing keeping me going is the thought of getting back in the water, Only 32 much to young to even think about not surfing again. still havn't told the surgen that i'm thinking about going in the water again not sure what he would say.Got to keep smileing see you in the water december 08
Walter Lampe-Holland-44 years old
Born in oz-serious surfer from age 10-20:stopped when i broke my wrist-scaphoid bone-just as music study became serious.32 years of age-family visit-me bro in law bangs on the window at 5.30am-surf's on.It was like gettin back on a bike-so i surf a month every 2 years or so-yep-training helps-slow joggin also helps for dodgy knees-i dream it-write songs about it!But i notice everytime that it takes a little more time to get back to a little bit a form-is da balance board really worth checkin out?Anyway-i know a bunch of 55+s on the Oz North Coast who only go out when its huge-then the carving party starts;its all between the ears with a bit o physical prowess-my sister started at age 49!Cheers
kevchild
Personal update!!
Wicked to see so much "stoke" being shared here guys and girls.
Not long after writing the article (2 years agoish) I found a guy who practices a whole range of holistic therapies, I went for a back injury, which he sorted there and then. I mentioned my knees, he subsequently had a look, attributed the problem to shruken hamstrings caused by my body protecting an old, recurring, back injury (20+ years ago) and over time throwing everything out of place and not drinking enough water. He put me on a serious rehydration programme and a couple of sessions of manipulation and th problem has all but gone away!! Sill get an occasional pain but have taken up Jiu Jitsu, am surfing a shorter board than I have for years, am getting in the water loads and am surfing better than I have for years.
Toatlly Staying Stoked!!!!
tyler mitchell USA california
hey everyone, :)
I'm two weeks post surgery- on my lower back, i had to finally give in and get a discectomy/laminectomy- It went well, so far, i am still house bound for two more weeks, my surgeon himself is an avid surfer.
I'm 42, and have been surfing since i was 12. I would say i surf almost every other day, atleast 4 times a week, not now obviously. The doc says i need a good solid 3 months of rehab and then an eval before i paddle back out. Anyone out there been thru this type of surgery and have some good advice?
turn nz x lefthand side
youshould have been there yesterday 70s
Paul Plackis, Rockledge, Florida USA
Hey there Kev Child,
Always be sure to get at least one of those second opinions from a patient who surfs, and has succeeded in the "overcome and adapt" department.
I've been surfing for over four decades (I'm 52 yrs old) and have osteoarthritis everywhere that is so far advanced that I got my first "bionic" surgery (calcified achilles tendon and heel rebuild), and my chiropractor ended up collecting disability because he ruined his own back trying to adjust too many large fellows like myself (6'2, 250 lbs).
Healing, reduced pain, along with increased strength and range of motion were attained with two of the best low-impact activities there are:
a) Working out with a masters age group swim team. Start out nice and easy getting your ass kicked by the old timers on the team who will gladly compare maladies and give you free pointers and lots of inspiration as you gradually notice your stroke and body mechanics and circulation efficiency all contribute to good healing and
b)spend lots of time doing easy stretching in a whirlpool / hot tub!
Always remember: Any day on a board is a good one, and there's nothing like the first day back in the lineup.
Then you know **you** **have** **arrived**
Yaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhh!!!!!!
Paul Plackis aka caveman
Chris, Cardiff
Inspiration? I'm in my early thirties and I've been surfing for about 8 years now and I still get out surfed regularly by you older guys!
Neil (bigfeller1) from Kidderminster
I'm now 43. I've been bodyboarding for about 3 years and try to get in for at least 4 days a month, whatever the conditions. It's the only leisure activity I spend any money on these days. I'm no good ,and I don't care, as long as I'm having fun. Thing is, I'm not fit for most other sports, because I have narcolepsy, but whenever I get near the sea, it just disappears until I'm back inland. Two years ago I saw a grey haired old man taking on a Gower reef on a bodyboard in a monster swell. He was charging. He must have been 60 at least. Why stop?
Shade Moss, Under the Duvet
I'm 42 now & been surfing on & off for 25yrs (more off than on these days!)still like to think i can surf to a decent standard. Went to 'gennidd a few sundays ago with the family (kids & all!)and suffered what is possibly the worst moment of my surfing career to date.......I couldn't manage to paddle out Doh! the shame of dragging myself back up the beach a mere 20 mins after swaggering down was almost too much, I just couldnt manage it...my arms felt like overcooked spagetti, I shook an angry clenched fist at the sea & vowed this would never happen again. So i'm left with 2 clear choices get fit, or just surf Coney.....oh dear
Peggy Hall from California
Check out the Yoga for Surfers DVDs to stretch and strengthen your knees. You'll dig it!
www.yogaforsurfers.com
John Gorton Port Macquarie Australia
Hey you guys last week we had the Aussie Titles. 5 competed in the Grand Masters - Over 45. Youngest competitor was 49 and oldest I think 53. Complete with barrels, spins, rolls but not any airs. Surf too small at 2-3ft. Have a look at the Bodyboarding Aust website at: http://www.bodyboardingaustralasia.com/ to see the contestants. I had a brain tumour out 3 years ago and managed 3rd cos I didnt complete my rolls.....bugger! Im 2nd on the left and operate and teach at a bodyboarding surf school here.
just to make you guys in the UK a little jealous this week started with 2-3ft Monday but went to 4-6ft Tuesday and 4ft Wednesday. Back to 2ft now tho. Water 26C!. 50 metre vis and long (up to 100m) clean walling and barrelling waves and only 6-12 guys out in the early morning till about 8:30.
Blake ,Devon
I too have a knackered knee and still go in 3 times a week,I know what you mean about the neopreme supporting your knee!!I'm due an op in January,the thought of not getting in the sea for 2 months worries me more than the op itself!!!You forget all aches and pains when your in the water.Devon surfer actual age 44 surfing age still 16!!!
Simon, Swansea
Recently started surfing at aged 40. No problem physically but wish I'd started 15 years ago when I had the chance. Being a survivor from the first wave of skateboading helps I think. Aches a lot the next day after 4 hours in the water though - and got to get me knee sorted! I don't think much to paddling out in Llangennith on a biggish swell with a longboard either - even though I used to swim competitively. It's a serious challenge.
sam, cornwall
wow! you older guys are definately and inspiration. I'm 15 have been surfing since i was 10, not competitvly, just because the feeling you get is like nothing else (well almost nothing else)in the world. Its the best thing in the world when, after school (suppose its work for you people though) you know you can just jump in the water and surf till its gets dark. Injured my spine quite bad though back at xmas though and those paddles to get out back are and absolute shocker sometimes, still everythings worth that feeling in the end! I'm going to be that grandad in 90 odd years i hope!
Rick O'Badknee
I've been surfing 10 years and I'm now 51. I have had one knee operation and need another. The pain when walking is unbearable sometimes - but wrap it in neoprene and make it staighten up on a longboard and miracles happen. Surf when the surf is there and take a sickie to recover after. Surf till I die.
les greenhill in the azores
in five years i will have surfed for half a century. seems long but not long enough i'm afraid.
Patrick Buxton from Truro
Well said Kev and the others, I started surfing in 1968 and haven't stopped since. I would not be nearly as fit as I am today aged 54 without surfing regularly. I'm not keen on those ice cream headaches or the winter wipe outs but then who is, at any age?
I went down to a 5' 7" twinny in the '70s but I now surf a 9' 4" Stewart and still love every minute I'm in the water! I can't think of any more enjoyable ways of keeping fit and enjoying life.
To anyone out there being told that you're too old to surf, ignore it and keep on getting that rush that you can only get from making that wave!
Joe form Bournemouth
Im not a 'mature' surfer but just want to say you older guys are an inspiration, its not just your surfing ability but your drive and will power. Keep it up and keep surfing. Thank you for the inspiration!
Chris Bowler - Scotland
54 next week and still surfing after more than 35 years!
My chiropractor fixed up a rotator cuff problem in my shoulder and my doctor is happy for me to 'grow old disgracefully', despite that damage to various bits of my anatomy from surfing and skiing !
To keep surfing, you have to keep the fitness training going - swimming, weights, stretching and cardio - and get a board with more float.
Dan from Essex
Your never too old to surf. My first board was bought with my paper-round money at the age of 13 with the support of my Dad. Now at the age of 31 i'm still surfing with the old man (51) and plan to for many years to come. Personally I can't wait till i'm 60, retire, and able to dedicate more time to it.
Phil R, Bath
Totally agree, keep surfing guys.
Doctors advice has to be listened to - no point in totally crippling ourselves, but given that our basic swimming and board moves are sound, low impact exercise, there must be sympathetic sports regimes out there to help with the sort of problems us older wave lovers have. Don't expect GPs or others to necessarily get it that surfing means more than just a workout in a wetsuit - maybe sports injury professionals at your local gym might be better tuned in to what drives sportmen (and women) to keep doing what they want to do.
I took up bodyboarding at 46 to keep an eye on the kids at the beach, and don't do it as regularly as you guys, but I think I've got it - just to look at the sea is to want to be in there. No feeling like it on a good day. Now looking at 50 this year and I've got no intention of slowing up - a new board is ready to go, and I intend to push it to keep up with my teenage son. I know I'm fitter since I took up the sport and it also provides the incentive to swim in local olympic size pool and do light training in the winter so I'm ready for waves again come Easter.
Surfing Grandparent catching waves with grandchildren? You bet, how cool is that going to be?
David Walker from Bristol
I'm 45 and I took up more serious surfing after a really bad climbing accident. I've got a job that means that I can get to the waves at least once a week. I still get loads of trouble with my knackered knee but my osteopath told me to keep surfing as it could only do me good in the long run. Mind you I'd prefer a heavy wipeout to a long fall any day of the week.
Colin from Sunny Bracknell
I started to surf at the age of 48, "don't you think you're bit old for that?" I was asked by work colleagues, 7 years on and I'm still not very good but I do enjoy it when i can get to the sea and the thought of not being able to .. well! I can't describe the feeling I get when I'm in the sea either.
Phil Jones, Swansea
I have a crook 39 year old shoulder that, unfortunately, makes paddling a tad uncomfortable to say the least. My Doc's attitude sucked "stop surfing, you're a bit old for that nonsense now". I simply ignored his advice, carried on through the pain barrier and out the other side. I've had a 25 year love affair with the ocean, and surfing in particular, and i'm damned if a painful shoulder is gonna keep me away from that. Surf around it, through it, or over it, just don't let it beat you.
Shwni Crooked Knee
logic and positive thinking defies physiology.
if it fails, i recommend a poultice of mugwort and cinqfoil.
