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I first came across a version of this voluptuously soft, rich chocolate mousse at one of my favourite places to eat in London. Then – as these things tend to happen – I started finding it everywhere. The olive oil doesn’t just bring its resonant flavour to the mousse, it creates its smooth, soft texture. Go for a smooth but still spicy rather than raspingly peppery extra-virgin olive oil, and use the absolute best quality you can.

Equipment: you will need 6 x 100ml/3½fl oz ramekins or espresso cups